Material Directions: SS 2023




The resilience formed during the pandemic has led to a fearlessness that trumps the pursuit of self-care and comfort. Visual cues see Dadaism, Futurism and Constructivism re-explored to create design with true message and value.

The characteristics of simmering anger and push for change seen in the early 1980s are reflected in the current political climate.

Polarisation on issues as wide ranging as immigration, the climate crisis and identity have spurred communities to speak up for urgent action. Fury explores this landscape with protest-driven innovation informing design directions.

Fury was first published in MIX Magazine issue 64, and the following colour, material and finish directions are explored in more detail in our SS 2023 Global CMF Forecast.



Red Depths


Red is a clear statement, and one that we’re increasingly seeing in layers and graduations across materials. Using a yellow undertone as a connecting element, transitioning between warm yellow Sawdust, vivid Sign Red and deep Carmine creates a series of atmospheric possibilities around this statement hue, as seen in TSAR Carpets Forma collection.






Evoking the wrinkled, glossy and tacky quality of naplak patent, the Dumb chair in high density foam finished with a rubber spray coating by Jumbo is described as championing the naïve, unsophisticated and uncool.



Max Lamb wire cuts slabs of expanded polystyrene and coats with high gloss plastic in his Scrap poly furniture series.


Leather Alternatives



While leather has an aesthetic that is integral to the historic style references in Fury, it would be remarkable if newer themes of protest such as the climate crisis didn’t prompt an exploration of leather alternatives. Motorcycle accessories brand, Brutus Factory have developed a material featuring crumbled racing tyres.



In collaboration with Bolt Threads, vegan designer Stella McCartney’s Mylo™ leather alternative is made from mycelium.



Work with Material and Colour?

Building on the design directions first published in MIX Magazine, our bi-annual Global CMF Forecast features concepts and colour and material palettes illustrated with more than 250 fully credited images.

Both publications are included in Colour Hive membership. Members can access our forecasts including Signals for AW 2023/24, Global CMF Forecast for AW 2023/24 and Design Impressions for SS 2023Part Two of our Insight for 2024 is out now.


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Image credits from top:

TSAR Carpets | Forma collection | Hand-tufted rug | Art Direction Nat Turnbull | Photo Lillie Thompson; MIX Images © Colour Hive; Jumbo | Dumb Chair | Foam and rubber coating | Photo Sean Davidson; Max Lamb | Scrap Poly Console | Photo courtesy of Gallery FUMI; Brutus | Donut SP | Tyre granule covered vegetable tannery leather jacket; Stella McCartney x Mylo™ | World’s First Mylo™ Garments (Utilitarian Trousers) | Mylo™ material, recycled nylon scuba; PANGAIA | MIRUM. pouch passport holder